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'For the love of green': inside Barcelona’s marijuana social clubs

‘Green how I desire you green’ – it sounds at first like the opening line of Romance sonámbulo (1928), by the famous Spanish poet Federico Garcia Lorca. But this is not poetry: it's a song by hip hop artist Sator Sánchez, and it is blasting through the speakers of one of the numerous private marijuana clubs in Barcelona, writes the Slovenian photographer and blogger Nina Behek. ‘Green how I desire you green, to burn you, green how I desire you green, to smoke you, green how I desire you green, to escape...’



Legal grey zone

Protractors of cannabis use have used a loophole in the law; cannabis is allowed to be cultivated for private use in Spain, hence the mushrooming of the private associative movement. The announcement on the door of this particular private member’s club in the neighbourhood of Borne says it all, but it’s the odour and the floating smoke which greet the senses, thereby giving the club the honour of its name. ‘This is one of the rare private places where we can smoke in peace,’ says an American lad as he mixes marijuana with tobacco, his first spliff of the day.


Grifa, hierba, maría, jamila, mandanga, mota, alfalfa, pito, ganja – marijuana has so many names in Spanish. Archeological data would have it that it was first discovered in 3000 BC. Yep, I’m talking about the most popular drug in the world, and the most consumed drug according to the world health organisation (WHO), which calls the drug by its scientific name, Cannabis Sativa. A 2010 report reveals that up to 250 million people, or 5.7% of the world’s population aged 15-64, most commonly use the psychoactive substance. Spain is one of the biggest cannabis consumers in the European Union. According to the European drugs observatory, around 11% of the population enjoy the use of marijuana. Since the 1930s, drug consumption and trafficking has been prohibited, but cultivating and consuming for personal use became legal here in November 2006.


I am informed that every citizen is allowed to have 80 grams of marijuana for their own personal use per month; that means every citizen can cultivate the plant in the comfort of their own home. Clearly, the rise in private establishments shows that businesses are keen to use that loophole to grow a little grass for you. It’s not so hard to find your local considering there are around 500 such associations in Spain, with the majority in Catalonia and the Basque Country, regions where there is a higher level of social tolerance; indeed, the latter is home to one of the oldest cannabis social clubs in the country.



How did this all begin? Bilbao, that's how

The Ramon Santos association for the study of cannabis (‘asociación Ramón Santos de estudios sobre el cannabis, ARSEC) is where the cannabis movement surged in Barcelona in 1993. One of the members sent a letter to one of the drug prosecution authorities to find out if it was indeed a crime to cultivate cannabis for the use of a group of adults (one story is that they went ahead and openly cultivated it anyway). This went down like a lead balloon; the case ended up at the supreme court.


It was too late in any case: other groups started to follow hot on the heels of ARSEC, such as the Kalamudia association in Bilbao. They grew around 600 plants whilst all the while avoiding legal action, in at least three separate instances. That’s how the model of the cannabis social club grew. Since they started appearing officially in 2002, these associations have allowed many thousands of Spaniards to stop putting their money into the black market, to be able to know the origin of the herb they are consuming, as well as enjoy its better quality. It has created jobs and boosted the alternative economy.   

How does a cannabis social club work?

Thanks to a lack of clear regulation, associations have had to improvise and invent solutions when it comes to standardising their activities. The main pioneering groups joined the federation of cannabis associations (la federación de asociaciones de cannabis, FAC) in 2003, which started its life with around 21 member clubs. The federation came up with a legal model and system of management, changing its name to the social cannabis association (asociación social de cannabis), to try to find a way to adapt to the growing number of clubs in the country, and the complexity of the valid legislation. The FAC eventually came up with a guide on creating cannabis associations.



‘It’s a long process,’ explains Theo tonight, as I ask how his particular association was opened. The 20-year-old Londoner opened the association in May 2012 with four friends from Belgium and Denmark. ‘I mean I could talk about it for days and days. There’s a ton of paperwork, and it’s expensive to work with lawyers. There are many rules to follow too.’

Typically, a cannabis association will be registered with the list of associations soon after it is founded. Then its members agree on a convenient collection means for the marijuana cultivation. The association has to rent or buy a piece of land, a building, equipment and whatever else it takes to cultivate and distribute the marijuana. Volunteer members take care of the plants, whether it's for private use or for other cultivators who are also association members. ‘We make our own herbs, whilst bigger associations hire employees to do it for them,’ adds Theo. 


Since legally these are not businesses but ‘associations’, any profit that is made has to be invested back in the structure. ‘We are all involved with marijuana in one way or another, and we want to contribute to the community and help others,’ says Theo. ‘The only thing we derive from this is the knowledge that other people are enjoying organic marijuana in a totally safe and secure environment.


Some of the extra money that is made goes into diverse social activities, such as courses and conferences, legal and medical consultancies, peaceful protests and events to pile on the political pressure and promote a flat-out legalisation of cannabis consumption.

How do you join an association?

You have to be invited by another member who can be your ‘guarantor’; who can vouch that you truly wish to become a cannabis consumer. For up to 20 euros a year, you can subsidise the legal amount of 80 grams of consumption per month, and you can access this deal any day. Each new member can add plants to the group’s plots.



Not only a place to buy marijuana

‘I like the social aspect of marijuana; it’s a very social drug,’ says Theo. Associations sell and allow you to smoke on their premises, but they also have introduce an important social nucleus, so it does not matter if its students mingling inside or your boss. Tonight, a group of American students are sitting around a table, joking at their touristic adventures of the day, whilst a businessman has just finished a meeting in another corner, and a couple of girls smoke a joint at the bar and discuss where they will party tonight.



The Americans, aka Christine, Alex and Rachel, explain that they are in Barcelona on a four-month study trip. ‘We came here on our second day,’ they laugh, after a university friend told them about it. ‘You can meet people from everywhere here, from France, Germany, Britain ganja brings everyone together,’ they add. Shane from England, who is sitting at the other end of the room and smoking a gigantic spliff, explains that marijuana consumers ‘are like a big family’.

Crisis-breaker

In a recent investigation from FAC, it was established that around one million Spaniards get their supplies from the associations, and that circa 30, 000 jobs have been created, allowing claims of around 50 million euros in taxes and 100 million euros in VAT – that’s in conjunction with the 300 million euros that the Spanish government is already directly receiving. 

In the town of Rasquera, in a province of Catalonia, the battle against the crisis begun in spring 2012 with a referendum fallen short on by 56% of the 900 residents, effectively stopping future plans of the open cultivation of marijuana in their region. The perks were obvious: this is a small town where unemployment reigns and which had the vision to see this alternative economy as a pick-up out of the crisis. Had the plans for production gone through, the Barcelona private consumption association, which has 5, 000 members, would have paid the town around 650, 000 euros a year for the right to cultivate their annual supplies there. The agreement would have created around forty jobs and allowed the town hall to pay its 1.3 million euro debt within two years.



The future is green

The administrative situation of the majority of the cannabis associations has mostly been standardised, although many questions remain unresolved and still run the risk of legal problems, especially when it comes to cultivation and transportation. The FAC thus came up with the proposition that associations could be supervised by the public institutions, and thus avoid any judicial or police interventions. This would combine all the searing administrative protocol (including the lists of places of cultivation, their inspection, production taxes and supervised transport). Via the associations and their democratic structures, the psycho-active substance would be able to claim its status as a plant which would improve the quality of life of many, instead of making a small, corrupt amount of people richer.



The movement should be flourishing in other parts of the world, not just Spain as part of the prohibitionist EU. The scope could be wider, as Darren, another American explains: ‘These places are great but after smoking so much, I get so hungry – I think the associations should take it to the next level and consider a food service of some sort.’ He smiles, as he sets about making himself another joint.

Text and all images © Nina Behek

Nocturnal street art world behind Barcelona’s shutters (10 images)

(Image: © Miha Mohorič/ hiddenwords.net)

(Image: © Miha Mohorič/ hiddenwords.net)

“Graphein”

The word ‘graffiti’ comes from the Greek word graphein, meaning ‘to write’, aka to scribble or draw on a flat surface (Image: © Nina Behek)


Walls have been decorated since the prehistoric murals, when surfaces were painted with different natural pigments, or the ancient eras of chalk in Pompeii or Athens, not forgetting the perverted nazi propaganda scrawls against the jewish race. Graffiti as we know it today developed as a recognisable art form when it conformed to the black subculture of seventies New York (Image: © Nina Behek)

Franco free

Since the dictator Francisco Franco‘s death in the seventies, Barcelona has become a bohemian capital of culture, all the while restoring its cultural Catalan roots which were supressed under Franco. For decades the city has flourished from the heat of liberty, graffiti, music and a tourist boom which has helped its economy. There is a real dialogue between the artists who live here and the everyday Jose on the street (Image: © Nina Behek)

Artists corner

Street art in Barcelona features local and international work as well from artists such as Pez Pescao (featured above), BToy, Kram, Ogoch,Kenor, Tom14, SM172 and Gola amongst others (Image: © Nina Behek)

Girls

In 2012 Barcelona organised its second annual meet for female graffiti lovers and rising artists,Fem Graff (Image: © Nina Behek)


Soothing


El Xupet Negre (‘the black pacifier) is an artist who draws babie’s dummies all over the city. In one interview he mentioned that he prefers to graffiti the walls of little towns around Barcelona, to avoid bothering people (Image: © Nina Behek)


Suppressed


Initially local shop-owners wised up to the reality, preferring to hire and recognise street artists instead of treating them like vandals. However since 2010 the Barcelona authorities are fining these businessmen for allowing such ‘anti-social behaviour’, as they call it, to take place. Society seems to be increasingly repressive for street artists today (Image: © Nina Behek)



Hipocresía

There is a huge contradiction of not allowing your city’s graffiti artists to work in the public space - even when the owners of the property don’t mind it - and then erecting huge exhibitions of graffiti which are promoted across different art galleries. The city is more attractive - and earns more money - as a result of its street art, and the routes created for tourists (Image: © Nina Behek)



MPBA

In 2012, the mapping Barcelona public art(MBPA) project was created via crowdfunding to promote public awareness about art and to protect the freedom of expression in the streets of the capital. In October 2012 their first exhibition, ‘The Streets Talk’ (Las calles hablan) coincided with the release of a documentary about street art in the city (Image: © Nina Behek)


Endangered


It’s sad to think that the graffiti artists who have been restricted to working on metallic shop shutters to conceal their work when the sun is out have been lighting our way through the dark streets of the city, but that this activity too will probably cease one day soon (Image: © Nina Behek)



Translator: NS/ cafebabel.co.uk

Slovenian expat: Barcelona, I love you, but I hate you too

It’s the sixteenth most visited city in the world and the fourth most visited in Europe (after Paris, London and Rome). Every year more and more tourists are attracted to the lure of Barcelona. No wonder, since it boasts a warm climate, vibrant markets, concerts in infinitely labyrinthal streets, a litter of historic monuments (slice of Gaudi, anyone?) and some of the world’s most famous football players. That’s down to good old publicity and marketing.

But Barcelona is also just like any other part of the world: it has its disadvantages, which become more visible when you actually stop to take a breather in the city and see it through non-touristy eyes. It’s when you actually start living here that things seem different.

To cross or not to cross?



Those famous flashing green traffic lights! In Slovenia they’ll lift your mood, but in Barcelona they represent a veritable challenge, the battle between the traffic lights and yourself, as you decide who will the victor in this battle. I am a young, fit and healthy woman and I know for sure that it is practically impossible to cross the street when the green light starts blinking at you. You get approximately three seconds to decide to make a run for it as that green man starts warning you to reach the other side already. There are around 34, 000 traffic light stations in Barcelona, and every fifth person who crosses the road here will end up having an accident. Better to restrain yourself and cross when it is safe.

Floor bore

Barcelona is still a city with many elevated structures, partly because the mayor has maintained the protection of the inner-city’s urban planning. None of the buildings in the historic centre have more than five floors around them. But each one has one a floor which is interspersed between the other, which brings the number up to six or seven in total. I always have to go to the fourth floor to get to my staircase, and it takes a while, because in the end I have walked up six floors – basement, ground floor, first floor, second, third, fourth... 


All that for what? As a friend kindly explained one day: ‘When these buildings were first built there was a law which prohibited the construction of any buildings which were higher than five floors. By having more floors but giving them different names, no laws were being broken.’ That’s all very well, but the price I am paying for that as a new resident in the city is a mess in my mind.

Not the greatest way to rise and shine

You drink too much one evening, you come home very late (or early in the morning), you pass out in your bed, and you wake up a few precious hours later with a sonoric …. Drrrrrrrr drrrrrrr…. 


Your head digests the massive explosion on the streets outside, but you are powerless. There will always be construction work going on outside. It’s not only a story of the Sagrada Familia: the entire city of Barcelona seems to be in constant construction.

Closed between 2 and 5pm

I had to buy a watch when I moved to Barcelona. In Slovenia shops open at 8pm and close at around 7pm. Bars and restaurants are open from 10am until midnight. In Barcelona every shop or restaurant has its own opening times. The Catalans tire of working day in and day out, and bag at least two hours of siesta every day.

But the siesta is not applied consistently throughout the city, and this is why I need to consistently check my wrist for the time: can I go and eat now? Do I have time for a coffee before they close the bar? Will the shop be open so that my walk is not for nothing? And so on. Why not work eight hours in one go and then go home and enjoy all that time off that you would have taken in the afternoon? I will never understand the benefits of these working hours. I also note that the Pakistanis, Indians, Moroccans and Africans in general keep their own bars, shops and bakeries open all day long and late into the night – where is their siesta time?

The Barcelona cocktail

Barcelona really smells. 


Let’s say the recipe for Barcelona is:

  -         two parts rubbish bags vegetating in the streets (since the town hall does not provide large metal bins in the streets for health and space, we’re assuming)

 -          one part gutter odour

 -          two sides of floating marijuana cloud

 -          two parts of urine mixed with pavement dirt (the natural result of the lack of available public toilets)

 -          plus a pinch of dog poo.

...It’s the most famous cocktail Barcelona has, but which few are a fan of.

Spanish bureaucracy

I will let this marvellous video featuring Juan Fernando Andrés Parrilla and Esteban Roel García Vázquez do the talking for me...

I do enjoy living in Spain, and I am falling in love with Barcelona more and more with each day, but the reality is definitely not a fairytale of a mere 24 to 36 hours in the city.

Text and images © Nina Behek, © Miha Mohorič

Kitty, Daisy and Lewis: The return of the oldies.

Written by Cristina Párraga, Translated by Jamie Broadway 
Long hair, vintage dresses, impossible hairdos and lots of eyeliner, this is how Kitty, Daisy and Lewis Durham present themselves; three siblings from England of no more than 18 years old who have already released two records in the charts. Their rockabilly style, inspired by the 1950s, these three siblings adore, and most importantly they’re not trying to recreate the music of this era, but they create it and produce it as if they were in this era. This is so much so, that they have built their own studio in their London home so that they can record their records analogically, without digital retouching, thus capturing raw sound.
 
 Kitty_Daisy_Lewis_inside_cd_single.jpg 
The trio started their Spanish tour on Friday [30/09/10] with a concert in Sala Apolo in Barcelona where they performed their most recent record, Smoking in Heaven; a challenge for them after the success achieved with their previous album which earned them a loyal audience with their catchy versions of old songs. The new album is composed entirely by the three siblings and they have wanted to move forward artistically with new themes that are influenced by distinct music styles like funk or ska.

Continue reading ...

I want to live in an Estrella Damm advert!

__Written by Emmanuel Haddad – 24/09/11, Translated by Jamie Broadway__

I am 25 years old, nearly 26. I have an unstable job, and I save my money for going out and having a drink with my friends where we discuss the current economic model which is destroying our futures. This is an easy conversation in Catalonia where 40% of young people are unemployed. This always leaves time to chat and drink beer: Estrella Damm to be precise. After a few beers, the discussion moves from Milton Friedmann, to the girl’s beautifully toned legs who’s sitting next to us, to the white stones of the Andalusian villages and then to the colour of the waters of the Galician beaches. Everyone then returns to their homes, slightly drunk, and goes to bed and starts to dream about an Estrella Damm life. This is because everything that we are searching for in life is found in an Estrella Damm advert. For example, we leave a girlfriend in order to do a culinary course at El Bulli, the best restaurant in the world (which is Catalan obviously!). We then fall in love with another stunning, 6ft blonde, with a body that shows no sign of overindulging in gastronomic tasting. __“A beer please.” “One euro.”__

Continue reading ...

Our national festival: "la diada de Cataluña"

Written by Susanna Arús Translated by Jamie Broadway

What better way to start than with the introduction of our national festival, la Diada de Cataluña, (the national day of Catalonia). Sunday 11th September 2011 was a day that enjoyed good weather and temperatures that would have been more in keeping with a day in August, and it was also this day that the Diada returned to unite the best of our region in order to showcase and celebrate Catalan identity. Two of the first events of the celebration unfolded in Parc de la Ciutadella and the Paseo Lluís Companys (the Arco de Triunfo). An enormous “estelada” (the independent flag of Catalonia) was hung from the Arco de Triunfo and it majestically dominated the avenue which was already inundated with white marquees. And once again, Òmnium Cultural had returned to organise to great success a programme packed full of activities.

No-one enjoyed the Diada as much as the children did. There was a variety of workshops catering for all different tastes: sporting activities, handicrafts, face-painting and even concerts aimed at just the youngsters. All the symbols of Catalan culture were present at the festival. Throughout the course of the day, spectators were treated to little exhibits of castells (human towers) and traditional Catalan dancing in the middle of the avenue. And just as one would have predicted, there were representatives from all different backgrounds: teenagers, children, families, grandparents… And there was even a group of motorcyclists that paraded up the Paseo Lluís Companys beeping their horns to the rhythm of the chant, “In-inde-Independencia!”.

The Diada is not just a day of festivities, but it is also the reclaiming of a culture, of a language and of an identity. It is for this reason that amongst the sea of white marquees, talks and debates about the pressing issues of the Catalan nation were organised. The Paseo Lluís Companys leads into Parc de la Ciutadella, where a Catalan book fair was held. Walking between the little wooden book stands you were able to find a wind range of Catalan literature from today and from yesteryear. Due to the sun and dust from the park, little refuges in the shade were set up; havens where you could listen to readings from fragments of Catalan narrative and poetry.

The day was drawing to an end and the last events of the Diada began. A protest, armed with a sea of flags and placards with the motto “We are a nation, we want self-determination” travelled across the centre of Barcelona, moving in the direction towards the Arco del Triunfo. Music from “grallers” (traditional Catalan musicians) and the proclamations of the protesters accompanied the march. Everyone ended up reuniting in the Paseo Lluís Companys where just minutes afterwards they were treated to a concert from the groups Quart Primero, La Troba Kung-fú and Obrint Pas that concluded the day in rhythms of pop/rock and Catalan rumba. The fantastic Toni Albà livened up the intervals between the groups, making the spectators roar with laughter with his impersonations of the ex-president Aznar, the King of Spain and the Pope.

Once again la Diada de Cataluña was and still is a festive and relaxed way to demand and proclaim the independency of the Catalan people.

Our team

The Barcelona cafebabel blog reopens its doors with a new project, new persons and new ideas. Our editor and contributor team turns out to be a young and dynamic group that is always open to new incorporations. The initiative of restarting the blog came up at the beginning of the summer 2011, and we work every day to improve and spread the word of the Barcelona edition of Cafebabel.

If you like writing, photography, cinema, sports or politics, do not hesitate and contact us!

Changing times for FC Barcelona

Maybe one of the latest goals of Ronaldinho with FC BarcelonaWhile most European football fans are concentrated on Euro 2008, FC Barcelona’s are living puzzling, changing times.

Only two years after winning the UEFA Champion’s League, Ronaldinho’s magic, Etoo’s fierce rage and Deco’s tactical witness have all disintegrated in a highly disappointing, hideous season. Neither beautiful moves by Tierry Henry, who is close to his career’s end, nor an intermittent Leo Messi, handicapped by his muscular fragility, were enough to wake up this depressing team.

Under the pressure of a vote of no confidence (as unlike most European clubs, Real Madrid and FC Barcelona are the property of their members, who periodically vote to elect their presidents), Joan Laporta’s board of directors intends now to quickly rebuild the team.

Ronaldinho, Etoo, Deco, Thuram and Márquez will surely leave FC Barcelona after Frank Rijkaard’s goodbye. The Dutch coach wasn’t capable of administering the daily life of a star-crowded team.

What about their substitutes? So far, FC Barcelona has strengthened its defence with players such as Keita, Cáceres and Pique and Daniel Alves (who plays as a right back from the good old days). Besides, Josep Guardiola, highly acclaimed among FC Barcelona’s fans, has been trusted to coach the team. What no-one knows yet is who will substitute Ronaldinho and Etoo it the forward line. Benzema, Trezeguet and Hleb are only some of the candidates.

Everything is welcomed to give hope to the fans that have seen how archrival Real Madid has won the last two Spanish championships.

Translation: Martí Purull Photo: Arnau(Bcn) (Flickr.com)

Controversy about airport security controls

seguretat_aeroportu_ria.jpg
The European Parliament is against the ropes because of a current citizen (David Raya, from Hospitalet de Llobregat, 1981) suffering from cystic fibrosis. It all started at Berlin Airport when the German police did not allow Mr Raya to board a plane with his 40 daily doses of medicines which he needs to have his illness under control. The reason for this was lack of legislation of secret regulations from European Directive 1546/2006, which strengthened security rules at airports.

Annoyed by this experience and by having to tell the tale over and over again whenever he had to take a plane, Mr Raya decided to make a request for the derogation or modification of the European Parliament Directive. The story has had a widespread effect in Barcelona’s newspapers and also among Catalan Euro MPs, no matter which party they belong to.

Months ago, Catalan Euro MP Ignasi Guardans (CiU) showed his disagreement after refusing to take his shoes off in a security control at Barcelona Airport last December. Then Mr Guardans said “airports cannot become a stronghold where some uniformed people can act freely and arbitrarily”.

Citizen organisations -such as nosinzapatos.com- have also showed people’s growing discomfort with rules that create arbitrary decisions in airport security controls, such as forcing passengers to take their shoes off.

Both cases reveal the need for European and domestic parliaments to rethink on the impact that legislation against terrorism has upon civil rights. These European directives are not far away from the so highly criticised American Patriot Act.

Translated by Martí Purull

The Chipped Stairs

escalier.bmp A lovely building stands at a corner in the heart of the Gracia neighbourhood. To go in you have to mind your head and walk towards an oddly small entrance next to the solid wood garage door. The footsteps echo in this big bare hall where the noises sound differently, like in a church. The awe-inspiring aspect of the room contrasts with its rundown conditions. The stone steps are covered with cardboards and the pale light doesn’t dare to shine in. In this flat, the leprous walls chip away and spread their sick crust all over the floor. These deteriorated coloured bits, full of delicately traced cracks, make up abstract paintings of subtle nuances. On the starry floor, a broken tile swings and plunges into a rustling. The decay caused by the footsteps brings out the deep wood grains and the broken pieces of glass of the glazed windows let the damp and the light in.

Text written by Géraldine Garçon, French artist who lives in Barcelona and makes artistic works about the daily life of the cities she lives in.

This is a text more of a series of portrayals of Barcelona written by Europeans. Are you in love with Barcelona? Contribute your articles to Barcelona’s blog in cafebabel.com.

Translated by Montse Nualart

Some water please!

Pantà de Sau After long months of drought, Catalonia has eventually received the nature’s godsend of rain. However, it was a fleeting visit and insufficient to quench the thirst of over 7 million people. Several weeks of constant rains would be necessary to reach last year’s level of water in the reservoirs.

The situation was, and continues to be so desperate that the Catalan and the Spanish Government felt obliged to take urgent and highly controversial measures such as the execution of a temporary decanting of water from the Ebro – a subject which generates and will generate real political hassles in Spain- the ban on irrigating, the prohibition of changing the water of the swimming pools, etc…However, the arrival of the ships to the port of Barcelona carrying water was possibly the most mediatic image.

The water crisis becomes more crucial if we take into account that Barcelona is one of the best European cities at saving water- 110 litres per day and citizen are used up- according to the Urban Ecosystem Europe study. To make a comparison, people in Paris use every day more than the double of water used by Barcelona’s citizens. It is quite unusual to see the streets being washed with water in the Mediterranean city. Quite on the contrary, water saving in Barcelona gets to the point of watering the green areas of the city with the water kept in huge subterranean deposits. Certainly, the rainfall rate in Paris is higher than the rainfall rate registered in the South of Europe.

In any case, the climate change is already here and the Southern-Europe countries and cities bear it in mind because they will be the first to be hit by this change. The new culture of water is not an option but a necessity for them.

Photography: Reservoir of Sau (Flickr) Translated by Montse Nualart

Barcelona, Goteborg, Berlin

This post is also available in: Spanish

'destrucci__de_la_mem_ria.jpg 'Lonely Karen Drifter'' is an alternative folk typical singer. She composes pure and beautiful music only with a guitar and a nice voice, but especially with a lot of feeling. The other day I was listening to an interview with her on the radio. One of the things that drew my attention about the interview, even more than her music (though it is so lovely), was that the singer talked about how her music has been influenced by her life, especially the places where she has lived in: Goteborg and Barcelona.

“Sweden and Catalonia?” you might wonder. Can somebody be interested in such a two different countries? It seems so! And I express it in such an enthusiastic way because I have also lived in both countries, though voluntarily, of course. Sweden and Catalonia are two very different countries, but especially because of this, they seem connected as well. Peace, organization and plenty of space in Sweden; activity, chaos and crowded streets in one of the Spain’s most Nordic regions or a southern one in Europe if we analyse it from a continental standpoint.

Life does not consist of choosing one option or another (this would be really boring) but mainly, experiencing everything: experience peaceful and active moments, moments to be alone or with company, organised moments and chaotic moments. Wouldn’t it be perfect to spend half a year –because of the weather, of course, the other big difference!- in Barcelona (winter) and the other half (during summer) in Sweden? I agree, due to the money this is not easy.

Meanwhile, I have decided to live in Berlin. A perfect point in the middle of Europe, between the north and the south, with quiet and lively places, organization and chaos… A city varied just as life itself. From my apartment I can’t hear any car even with the windows opened. However, only at five minutes from my house there are plenty of bars, cafes, and streets are lively. Daily life is well organised, with a large and efficient public transport network which can take you explore the Berliner chaos whenever you feel like it: the excellent urban dynamism, the industrial areas outdated since the fall of the Berlin Wall, bars called “private clubs” where you decide the price of the drinks they sell… From time to time this so well-organised public transport network is the main cause of the chaos – like at the moment for the bus drivers are on strike since yesterday. So this kind of chaos does not always make you happy, especially when you are going to travel and need the bus to get to the station with your suitcase…

I hope Lonely Karen Drifter will come to discover this (almost) perfect place.

This article written by Henriette Ritz is part of the EuroBarcelona’s portrayal series.

Translation by Gemma Herrero

Thank you!

Dear Catalan babelians,

First of all, we would like to thank all the people, movements and institutions that have support us during last month. We continue the search of funds in order to relaunch the Catalan version of cafebabel.com. Meanwhile, the blog of Barcelona will be the window through we would try to communicate the Catalan reality around Europe and to the 200.000 Europeans living between us.

If you are interested to collaborate with us, to parcipate into Barcelona local redaction actions or you want to give us a hand send us an email to Barcelona@cafebabel.com

Thank you very much again!

Sant Jordi through European eyes

roses.jpgAbout a week ago, on 23rd April to be precise, a great event was held in the streets of Barcelona. It was indeed Sant Jordi’s Day, the patron saint of Barcelona, though you must admit that it does not represent such a colourful festivity. According to the legend Sant Jordi had to kill a dragon to save his beloved princess’s life and a rose sprouted out from the dragon’s blood. On account of this story it is this special day, which makes us think of a sort of Valentine’s Day brought forward in time, that men give a rose to their wives, mothers, girl friends or just to their female acquaintances. In return women give a book to men, since the 23rd April is the anniversary of Miguel de Cervantes’ death as well, the famous writer of Don Quixote and therefore one of the greatest figures in the Spanish literature.

On Sant Jordi’s Day hundreds of street stands with flowers and books (brand new or second-hand) fill up all the corners in Barcelona but especially the well-known Rambles in the city centre, where as we could see from live images on TV, roses and books were sold until well into the night. This shows the importance of this day for people from Barcelona and Catalonia who enjoyed both a book fair and stands in the heart of the city.

Valentine’s Day, magic legends, a book fair and street stands. Sant Jordi is all these things together!

Article by Lucille Wehrlé

Translated by Genma Herrero

BIKES TO THE FULL

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The amazing figures for Bicing show more than 130,000 subscribers, 300 new users every day, an average of 30,000 cyclists a day and more than 18 million kilometres done. The shared bike network set up by the Barcelona City Council just a year ago is similar to the ones in Lyon, Copenhagen, Brussels and Paris. At the moment, the people of Barcelona can enjoy nearly 130 kilometres of bike lane all around the city thanks to 300 stations and more than 4,000 public bicycles offered by the network. All this for 24 Euros a year.

Slowly, the white and red bicycle has made its way to the traditional symbols of the public transport in Barcelona such as the yellow taxis (like in New York), the underground and the public buses.

This great success of a service used by people of any age has also caused some trouble: no bikes when you want to take one, no places to leave the bicycles back in the stations, periodical saturation of the computer system in the stations, a clash between cyclists and pedestrians, etc…

In any case, if we add the over 50,000 cyclists that go around the streets of Barcelona every year to the users of Bicing, the city is approaching the standards of Dutch cities, which are a referent in the use of bikes.

Taking into account that a research done by the World Health Organisation in 2005 shows that Barcelona is the third European city with the highest levels of atmosphere pollution, Bicing is not just desirable but also necessary.

Translation by Montse Nualart

La Violeta

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Two side-hung doors nimbly open in La Violeta, a spacious bar where the neighbours from Gracia often go. A filthy shade spreads over from the floor to the roof, covering on its way the plastic tables and the slender columns with capitals that give rhythm to the room. Only the fire extinguisher and Estrella’s logo (one of the most known Catalan beers) brighten up the spacious dimly lit room with a touch of red. It’s been two weeks since I witnessed this daily and practised performance for the first time. Day after day, the regular costumers play their role in this banal scene again and again, with a Swiss clockwork precision.

Striding purposely, the motor-cyclist with a dark blue suit starts the dancing at a quarter to six. He keeps his back straight as he walks to his stool at the end of the bar. Before he can order anything, he has already got a small brown bottle on his lips. A man who was reading the newspaper at the other end of the bar, and who was like waiting for the starting signal to be given, moves away silently.

La Violeta comes to life. At half past six, the select group of post officers takes a seat around the round table. With a rag on his hand, the cheerful owner of the bar takes part in the lively conversation. The bar fills up with long-haired youngsters who slovenly throw their jackets and roll up the cigarettes with a stance of indifference.

The pot-bellied writer takes some liberties. Being neither a civil servant nor a worker he can make his entrance at any time. He leaves his heavy books apart and comes out from a cloud of smoke to order a black coffee. Then, he keeps stroking his beard with a podgy hand for hours while he listens to himself.

In this scenery, where I also have an assigned position, there are some silhouettes whose faces I will never see. From time to time, the owner has a quick look at my drawings. I usually meet his wife at the market. And when I go back to La Violeta I already know that before six o’clock the motor-cyclist is going to come in striding purposely.

Text written by Géraldine Garçon, French artist who lives in Barcelona and makes artistic works about the daily life of the cities she lives in. Translation by Montse Nualart

Zapatero 2.0 (1)

This post is also available in: French

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José Luís Rodríguez Zapatero begins his second term at the head of the Spanish Government after being able to be sworn in as President of the Government thanks to a fragile but paradoxically solid simple majority at the Spanish Parliament. Even without the trust of the majority of the deputies, several elements give leeway to ZP (the nickname by which he is known in Spain).

First of all, the Partido Popular (People’s Party) is undergoing internal reforms. The prospect of being in opposition for 4 more years has opened a Pandora’s box for the Spanish conservative party and its leader, Mariano Rajoy, who is beginning to be questioned inside his own party. The first "cainite" stone has been cast recently by the President of the Community of Madrid, Esperanza Aguirre.

On the other hand, as far as everyday administration is concerned, the socialist government can rely on alternate support from a wide range of minority political forces. Even though the media talk about two main priority partners from the regions: the Basque Nationalist Party and Convergence and Union, the PSOE (Spanish Socialist Workers' Party) can reach specific agreements concerning social issues with the minority forces of the Republican Left of Catalonia as they did at the end of the first legislature. Even the People’s Party seems now ready to debate issues like terrorism and the funding of the autonomous communities.

Whatever the options chosen by the PSOE, the next 4 years will be a real challenge for Zapatero. With the economy slowing down (the IMF predicts a Spanish growth below the 2% of the GDP), the inflation going through the roof (4%), the construction industry (one of the pillars of the growth of the recent years) dropping alarmingly, the ghost of job losses around the corner (the Spanish Employer Association predicts the destruction of 600,000 work positions in 2008), the peace process in the Basque Country in tatters, the Sword of Damocles of the Constitutional Court on the controversial Statute of Catalonia, etc… everything points that Zapatero will be very busy during next years. Will he cope with everything?

Photo credits: (© Guillaume Paumier / Wikimedia Commons)

Translation by Anna Prims

Terror at the Dubrovka Theatre again?

la_fura.jpg Around a year ago the passers-by in carrer de la Justícia in Rubí (a town in the Barcelona metropolitan area) were alarmed every time they walked past the Municipal Theatre. But why? From the outside they could see men armed to the teeth wearing balaclavas and walking round the theatre. Not until they called the police did they find out that all was part of the new play of La Fura dels Baus, one of the most innovative and controversial theatre companies in Europe.

La Fura has chosen the tragedy in the Dubrovka Theatre of Moscow as a basis to adapt the plot of Boris Godunov, a drama by the Russian poet and novelist Alexander Pushkin, to the reality of the beginning of the 21st century.

Throughout the play the creators from La Fura share with their audience the horror suffered by those in the Russian theatre: the appearance of the terrorists, the planting of bombs in the stalls, the tension of the kidnapping and the arguments among the terrorists. Some scenes even evoke the crisis committee and the negotiations with the terrorists. It is true that the creators themselves stress that their intention goes beyond recalling what happened in Russia and that their will is to show the audience the horror of any kidnapping or violent situation.

The première of the play took place in Segura de Molina at the beginning of April and it will have its first night at the Teatre Nacional de Catalunya on 17th April. Later on, La Fura is going on an international tour which will bring the 21st century Boris Godunov to Germany, Italy and the Netherlands.

Translation: Gemma Herrero Fabrés

Summer School in Media and Nationalism

SSchool_logo.gifIn a European framework that legitimizes and reinforces State as a unique political player with the ability to participate in the Union, regions with nationalist claims seek to clarify their political future by satisfying their aspirations (sovereignty or greater autonomy) and becoming fully integrated in the supranational structure.

Sometimes autonomous development is shaken by the outbreak of violence, mixed inevitably with anthropological, political, sociological and communicative issues. Therefore, it can be inferred that the study of these factors is key in the possible treatment and resolution of violent or non-violent ethno-national conflict.

Taking four paradigmatic cases: Northern Ireland, Scotland, the Basque Country and Catalonia, The Summer School in Media and Nationalism in Vic aims to share and discuss an experiential and methodological background. The project starts in Vic (Barcelona) in July 2008 with the prospect of continuing in Leioa (the Basque Country) and extending in consecutive editions, the focus being always on the media and national conflicts.

To this end, universities sensitized to these issues and located within these regions: Queen's University of Belfast (Northern Ireland), University of Stirling (Scotland), University of the Basque Country (Bilbao, the Basque Country) and Vic (Barcelona, Catalonia), have teamed up to attend the SUMMER SCHOOL OF MEDIA AND NATIONALISM, which will take place in the second week of July 2008. The main aim is to propose an initial approach to each others realities, similarities and differences from a multidisciplinary perspective and an academic standpoint.

More information here

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